Each consecutive season, J.JS Lee evokes a chic androgyny with her creations. Any outrageously feminine additions bypass the realms of minimal, with a complete omission of neck, waist or wrist adornments. This clinical simplicity also resonates in the garments themselves, with eloquently tailored shapes built so as not to mar an elegant profile with evidence of construction. It seems this cleansing sense of ethereal purity is a rather literal illustration of Jackie’s aeroplane inspiration.
The designer found artistic value in the framed views through an aeroplane window, shadows cast upon a concrete runway and serene chalky clouds occasionally kissed by rays of light. This refreshing plethora of subtle tones was undoubtedly the highlight of this Fall 2012 exhibit. Here the designer subtly applies washed out tones, suggestible shadows on a surface we have already deciphered to be lacking in constructed contours. Suggestions of colour worked best when juxtaposed upon a bold hem or applied to define neck or wrist details.
Though occasionally ill-fitting, there were special pieces that found us warming more toward J.JS Lee than any other designer showing on Day 2 of London Fashion Week. The early dress exits work wonders as a crisp single layer, furthermore the engulfing fluid jumpsuits were the very definition of elegance. The lapel lacking tailoring has a strong sense of adaptability, here a subtle waist-kick free of button interruptions results in an exquisite silhouette when married with a pencil skirt.
Words: Scott Goldthorpe