House of Holland AW2012 - elysium.e Review

Boisterous slogan t-shirts, grunge distressed denims, fairground pinstripes and vibrant exotic prints are trademarks of this British designer. A chap fully attuned to this playfully kitsch nation, manipulating decades of questionable design to realise his own often hysterically youthful aesthetic. It seems this Fall 2012 the House of Holland has opted to manipulate recognisable textile prints, momentarily dismissing a demanding directional theme. This offering embodies a much more refined and subtle approach to design, as Henry matures so it seems does his customer.

Pinstripes are filtered through the brands adventurous colour palette, cleverly cut and pasted to realise a flattering silhouette. Necklines are consistently above the collarbone, occasionally parted in a sophisticated teardrop. A curved glance of flesh within the feminine border of a close fitting silhouette, an hour glass juxtaposed and thus exaggerated by a zigzag bodice. Henry hits full throttle with colour coded houndstooth print, bands of vivid pink emphasizing a bust or defining a waist. Eventually the prints foundations are tested dissolved and fragmented across a surprise Holland evening number.

This eloquent shift is an altogether more tasteful direction and one that runs harmoniously alongside the brands signatures, though even these lose their brazen adolescence. The trio of initials ‘HOH’ planted upon a cap at the beginning of the show, subtly imply as to whose design offering your about to admire.

*Note: keep your eyes peeled for a fur sleeved coat this winter, a great way to add drama to flailing arms.

Words: Scott Goldthorpe