Crafty designer duo Stephen Cox and Daniel Silver often create collections void of a tangible influence. Exploiting their own razor sharp wit and combined quirky mannerisms to realise a candid runway presentation. An authentic ethos which trickles from season to season, occasionally tweaked but entirely resolute in its signatures. Trademarks of generous plaids and checks often used to construct vastly varying proportions.
This time around we saw the twosome test the waters of acceptable volume, with generously cut widths almost as accommodating at the hem as they are the waist. Fluid volumes adorned with a bold plaid, a linear grid that both exaggerates and refines. The plaid also suggests a sparse colour palette of purple and red in an otherwise monochromatic presentation.
The single and double breasted blazers maintain a masculine frame, strong shoulders and sparse detailing which seems to warrant a playful pant or a vertically exaggerated under-layer. Speaking of, the concluding mid-thigh skimming shirt seems to mirror that of their ‘Bug Print’ shirt SS’11, playing to this strong brand ethos. Not to mention the warped lightweight knit maintaining an abstract ingenuity that the brand has been built upon. Needless to say this piece also resembles the aftermath of an altercation with a leather-clad, circa 1990 Johnny Depp, time to don a set of hydraulic secateurs to match those bedraggled locks chaps.
Words: Scott Goldthorpe